And reselling your second-hand, personalized iPod isn't really feasible. So people probably more likely to buy a new one, which likely helped Apple sell more devices.
I really liked my iPhone 12 mini. But Apple also makes a lot of money from app sales, so I wonder if there’s a connection between screen size and app purchases.
Maybe users with larger screens spend more time in apps and are therefore more likely to buy apps or make in-app purchases. The more screen real estate people have, the more they might engage with apps, which could translate into higher spending.
Fun Dutch observation:
IKEA’s ANTILOP high chair sounds like “anti lopen” in Dutch.
“lopen” = “to walk”
So the name can be interpreted as “anti walking” or “prevents your baby from walking away.”
I know it’s actually named after the animal (antelope), but the accidental Dutch wordplay is perfect for a baby chair.
Correct. However, this imho does not need to be a problem when using references to data instead of data duplication when sending results over the wire.
I see Libraries and frameworks as a way to capture knowledge and best practices so it can be shared with other people. So looking wat a LLM/AI does, it looks to me that this would be a perfect fit. Without the dependeny hell, unresolved github issues, need to fork and leaving maintainers. It could be opensource on steroïdes, with far shorter feedbackloops (just working in your IDE).
The main burden I see is validation of the output and getting reproducable results. As with many AI solutions.
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Sheldon Brown is a great resource for bike information - lots of no-nonsense advice and explanations though it is getting a bit out-of-date now since his death. A particular favourite of mine is his chain cleaning method: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html
That would be something I'd personally consider out-of-date with modern chains. Apparently that makes me a "Lazy, careless cyclist" as I would never use grease on a chain. Nor would I ever follow this insane method of cleaning a chain.
Guess I'd consider myself to be an efficient cyclist, which may be construed as "lazy" by some.
edit: reading onward, he claims "Serious cyclists, who value performance..". I wonder what he considers "performance", because it sure appears he didn't consider or measure drivetrain efficiency.
Knowing how much of a PITA even modern in-depth chain cleaning is with solvents... I can't read that article as anything but satire. Even with old roller designs, an overnight soak in paint thinner followed by an ethanol bath should get the whole thing close to bare metal. Maybe the disassembly is specific to getting roller grease applied properly, unlike how he mentions manufacturers just dip the chain in a homogeneous lubricant? I'm surprised Brown didn't advocate for chain waxing over using grease for performance and maintenance reasons.
I hadn't actually read the chain cleaning page before but I did read his page on chains, which to an extent is contradicting with his chain cleaning page:
"New chains come pre-lubricated with a grease-type lubricant which has been installed at the factory. This is an excellent lubricant, and has been made to permeate all of the internal interstices in the chain. The chain and this lubricant need to be warmed during application.
This factory lube is superior to any lube that you can apply after the fact -- well, unless...see below."
Hard for me to tell what is original content vs. new. It has been empirically demonstrated that factory lube and grease are considerably inferior when it comes to drivetrain efficiency (performance) compared to a wet lube, which is less efficient than either dry lube or wax (with or without additives).
I've waxed chains for a while in the past but stopped a couple years ago. I now do a "good enough" quick clean of a chain using an undiluted degreaser, rinse with water and a final rinse with isopropyl. The whole process takes 5 minutes and the chain is clean enough for new application. Not clean enough for waxing, you'd want to throw in a solvent before ethanol/isopropyl, but good enough for wet/dry lube. I've no science to back longevity of chains following above procedure, I generally swap between 2-3 chains during a season to keep wear reasonable and then start fresh in the fall before indoor.
That's one of the features. Live Tensio, one visualization in Wheel Analytics, shows live tension as you introduce your tensiometer to the wheel. A live reading can be recorded by pressing the foot pedal. Tension distribution is then presented in bar graph form along with min/max/avg. A printable version can be generated for record keeping or sharing with customers for marketing purposes.
You are 100% right that tension is a critical wheel dimension.
The optimum is very much dependent on the materials used (steel wheel, aluminum wheel, single or multiple layers, the kind of spoke nipple used, the spoke thickness, the number of spokes, the shape of the spokes, the length of the spoke and so on). If you don't know exactly what you are doing I would stay away from the optimum and simply play it safe, it doesn't really pay to find that you over estimated one or more of the parts. Overtensioning is much more dangerous than undertensioning, what is far more important is that you tension the spokes evenly, and if you have asymmetric spokes (for instance: most rear wheels) that you tighten the shorter side a little bit more. Consistency is key.
I can't agree. According to the legendary 'Art of wheelbuilding' by Gerd Schraner (and promoted by dtswiss spokes) slack wheels are a recipe for broken spokes. I have heard what you said repeated by many 'old time' mechanics, but the evidence from dtswiss is that all wheels should be tightened to the maximum tension the rim can support. I certainly always did this with my mountain bike wheels when I was a downhill racer and the pro riders I knew agreed. I never had a catastrophic failure and my wheels were maxed out using the method in the book already mentioned
There is a big difference between 'not overtensioned' vs 'slack'. Obviously the latter is going to get you in trouble. But simply don't overdo it, err on the side of caution and don't try to go for maximum tension before things break unless you really know what you are doing. Because they will break if you are not 100% certain that you are still under the limit.
I think the big difference between your use case and mine is simply that I don't have the luxury of rebuilding my wheels every three weeks but they have to last for years. I'm sure that if you treat them as disposables that you can get much closer to the limit, but the bike shop where I worked built ordinary bikes for ordinary people, and then long term reliability is far more important than to squeeze the last little bit of stiffness out of a wheel, though I can see that even in that case there might be some gain from being able to do that.
Keep in mind that this was - and in many places still is - a pretty low tech affair and broken spokes on a bike through normal use on a properly maintained bike in principle should not happen. Usually that indicates that either something got abused, badly mounted or left without maintenance for too long.
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