Lack of SSR != An engineering horror. Crawlers can handle these pages effortlessly these days. So long as the client-side performance is good, SSR isn't very important.

In aggregate it's all a horror, given how easy it is to add SSR with Next.js. I know, I work on crawlers and scrapers professionally, and it's wayy easier, if you want a robot to scrape you, to have a site with SSR disabled. It's just generally faster and and a better experience for the user, and cheap to add.

As an aside, Stripe IIRC seems to use half-SSR, half client-side fetching really interestingly to fetch data below-the-fold after load, for even faster load times. That there is excellent engineering.