Or just a VM that doesn't share so much with your host. Just makes for a more annoying dev experience.

Why do you need to share anything? Code goes through GitHub - VM has it's own repo clone, if you need data files, you mount them read-only in the VM, have a read-write mount for output data.

I'd like to be able to see and edit the code in an IDE

I work every day in a remote node with an IDE. VS code has a really simple extension you can run a full ide with file system control in a remote server. Git clone your files, open up VS code.